Laherte Freres Ultratradition Brut Champagne NV (1.5L)

Aurélien Laherte is a force to be reckoned with in Champagne. In addition to taking a progressive stance on natural viticulture and winemaking, Laherte and his father, Michel, both believe that the use of chemicals and herbicides prevents a full expression of terroir. ‘Ultradition’ Brut is a Pinot Meunier (60%) dominant blend, rounded out with Chardonnay (30%) and Pinot Noir (10%), fermented in foudre, tank, & barrel, with regular lees stirring.

A pleasantly oaky and toasty Champagne, this character and the creaminess from long yeast contact really harmonize the acidity and make this an accessible Extra Brut. A cuvée of 60% pinot meunier from the Vallée de la Marne, plus 30% chardonnay and 10% pinot noir, including 40% reserve wines. All of the base wines were vinified in wooden casks of various sizes, from the Burgundian, 228-liter version upwards. Drink now. (1/5/22)

Based on the 2015 vintage and 40% of reserve wines, the NV Extra Brut Ultradition is an assemblage of 60% Pinot Meunier, 30% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Noir from eight villages and terroirs in the Coteaux Sud d'Epernay and the Marne Valley. Vinified in cuves, pièces and foudres and aged on the lees for six months (with malolactic partly done), this is a deep, pure and complex cuvée. Full-bodied, firm and very mineral yet fine, fresh and pure on the salty palate, the finish reveals charming richness and intense fruit but keeps the firm and chalky expression of this impressive Extra Brut. I'd keep this cuvée for another two or three years, but I suppose it can also age for a decade. Tasted in August 2018 from Lot L.14 that was disgorged in November 2017. Drink: 2021-2028.

he NV Extra Brut Ultradition is powerful, ample and creamy, with tons of richness and plenty of immediacy, all the ingredients for a terrific entry-level wine. The vinous richness of Meunier comes through loud and clear. Orchard fruit, dried flowers, herbs, mint and anise all develop in the glass, but it is the wine’s resonance that leaves the deepest impression. The Ultradition is just impeccable, especially within its peer group. The blend is 60% Meunier, 30% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Noir from vineyards in the Côteaux Sud d’Epernay, Vallée de la Marne and Côte des Blancs, based on 2016 with 40% reserve wines from 2015 and 2014. Dosage: 4.5 gr/L. Disgorged: May, 2019. Drink: 2019-2027.